We caught the 8am train (arrived at the station just on time), quick ride across London (having practised the route a few weeks ago), just in time for the next train to Portsmouth, a short ride to the car ferry terminal and perfect timing for the next ferry. We waited near the sign for pedestrians and cycles (but not in the middle of the road where we would get run over) watching cars driving onto the ferry, only to see the ferry ramp get raised. We asked the attendants who were directing vehicles when we were going to be let on, but they said we'd missed that one. Basically it wasn't their job to instruct pedestrians and the guy whose job it was said we weren't waiting in the correct place (the correct place being in the middle if the road in front of the sign) so he couldn't see us. The guys who could clearly see us didn't care. They said that this has been a problem in the past and that they needed another member of staff just to direct the pedestrians. We were only two of four bikes and at least five other pedestrians who were also flummoxed by this attitude and disbelief seeing at the departing ferry. The next ferry was only about 15min wait so we we made sure to block the road and wait in the correct place this time.
It was a minor setback that was mostly annoying because of our lucky run so far. On the island before 1pm, already fed on the train/ferry, we set off. One of our concerns about this trip was hills. Our concerns were justified as the carpark/exit from the ferry at Fishbourne was a steep hill! It flattened out but there were many undulating hills which with 25kg of bike and luggage was hard work! We made regular snack stops and enjoyed the scenery. There is a 'round the island cycle route' which is clearly signposted and usually avoids main roads. We were surprised by the volume of traffic but figured most people have to drive to get anywhere (there are buses and a short section of train line) and the population isn't small.
Our biggest concern was the detour up Culver Down - a hilly point which we knew was a steep climb. We made it to the top (after a short rest part way) and enjoyed great views at the top. It followed a few small hill climbs which meant we were already tired. This was the site of one of our British Cycle Quest questions, otherwise we wouldn't have thought of climbing that hill.
Almost there!
What we thought was not far to the campsite near Sandown was a long 5 miles of hills. We were very relieved to arrive, set up the tent and enjoy a hot shower. Andrew prepared dinner (chorizo and tomato pasta) Grace did the laundry (you don't carry any more clothes than you really need - an additional change of clothes = more weight!).
Our setup
We slept pretty well thanks to our (light) inflatable mattresses and (light) pillows. Our (light) tent kept us warm and dry (when it rained at 6am in the morning). Luckily by the time we has made our porridge the weather had cleared. Our laundry had not dried much and subsequently got rained on but the tent dried out. We were on the road by 10am on our way along the south of the island. Not too many hills to start with, although we detoured to the village of Godshill to get another question answered. The name Godshill gives it away. It's on a hill! We missed the small 'Chapel' on the way through some roadworks so headed for the 'Church' thinking that may be where the answer was. We bought some local chocolate from a chocolate shop which gave us a good sugar boost for the steps up the hill. The hill wasn't much in the end. A service was about to start but a very friendly man (who has relatives living on Waiheke and around NZ) said we could look around for a few minutes (wearing our cycle gear, carrying helmets!). We asked about the chapel and he explained it was back down on the main street. We were glad we missed it though, because the church was really nice and the walk back down via the street took us past several thatched cottages.
We stopped for lunch on the side of the road where we could conveniently lay out the wet clothes to dry!
As we neared Freshwater in the west, we had two long steady climbs. It was great to reach the top and enjoy the views again (chalk cliffs to the west and beaches back to the east). It was also a good chance to finish our sandwiches (we had lots of food breaks rather than filling up all at once).
It was a nice ride downhill to Freshwater and to the campsite. We quickly put up the tent and rushed off to the supermarket before closing (Sunday trading hours in the UK) only to realise that the Co-op and Sainsburys Local where not 'real' supermarkets and were open until 10pm! Back to camp, drop off food then we cycled out to the most western point called The Needles, a series of chalky lumps off the point.
Near the point was a carpark and amusement park (the typical tacky British seaside kind) and a chairlift down to a beach which seemed a weird thing to have. We cycled to the very tip where there is a National Trust site called the Old Battery, an old defense battery, but as we were quite late this was closed. The best view was from further back at the 'amusement park' anyway. We enjoyed dinner (same again!). This time we had our own picnic table at the campsite which was very convenient (sitting or crouching on the ground isn't comfortable for long).
We stopped for lunch on the side of the road where we could conveniently lay out the wet clothes to dry!
As we neared Freshwater in the west, we had two long steady climbs. It was great to reach the top and enjoy the views again (chalk cliffs to the west and beaches back to the east). It was also a good chance to finish our sandwiches (we had lots of food breaks rather than filling up all at once).
It was a nice ride downhill to Freshwater and to the campsite. We quickly put up the tent and rushed off to the supermarket before closing (Sunday trading hours in the UK) only to realise that the Co-op and Sainsburys Local where not 'real' supermarkets and were open until 10pm! Back to camp, drop off food then we cycled out to the most western point called The Needles, a series of chalky lumps off the point.
Near the point was a carpark and amusement park (the typical tacky British seaside kind) and a chairlift down to a beach which seemed a weird thing to have. We cycled to the very tip where there is a National Trust site called the Old Battery, an old defense battery, but as we were quite late this was closed. The best view was from further back at the 'amusement park' anyway. We enjoyed dinner (same again!). This time we had our own picnic table at the campsite which was very convenient (sitting or crouching on the ground isn't comfortable for long).
Monday morning, 6:30am and it rained again. Fortunately it cleared and the sun dried out the tent before we packed up. Our ride started on a pleasant quiet cycle/walking path up to Yarmouth, then east to Calbourne to visit Winkle St. This is a quaint little street next to a beautiful clear stream. Another great spot to stop for a bite to eat.
Next we headed towards Cowes in the central/north of the island. Our final question was along Victoria Parade but we couldn't find the plaque with the answer to the question. I took a photo of a plaque but figure this wasn't the correct one and that the question was probably out of date. After some fish and chips we went back along the parade to look again but couldn't see anything else. Later I looked at the photo on the camera and realised that the answer was there, at the bottom of the plaque that I had photographed!
Next we headed towards Cowes in the central/north of the island. Our final question was along Victoria Parade but we couldn't find the plaque with the answer to the question. I took a photo of a plaque but figure this wasn't the correct one and that the question was probably out of date. After some fish and chips we went back along the parade to look again but couldn't see anything else. Later I looked at the photo on the camera and realised that the answer was there, at the bottom of the plaque that I had photographed!
There was a 'chain ferry' across the river to East Cowes, free for pedestrians and cyclists. It literally cranked itself along two very chunky chains across the river. Up the hill towards Fishbourne with our final stop at Osborne House, which was Queen Victoria and Prince Albert's summer retreat that is managed by English Heritage. We ended up joining EH as this was then an incentive to go and see more sights, and a special offer for 6 extra months free. The house was very large though we only saw part of it. As usual very decadent and elaborate for a royal home, with one wing decorated in Indian style as Queen Victoria had taken a very keen interest in Indian culture. There was also a Swiss Cottage built to teach the children how to cook and each of them had their own garden patch of which Prince Albert would pay for the things they grew. As it was rather warm, we treated ourselves to ice creams and went to look at the bathing machine, yes the Queen had a contraption which allowed her to bathe in the sea without being visible by anyone else. It wouldn't be proper for the Queen to be seen in a bathing suit, now would it. More of a novelty than a practical contraption.
Then it was time for the final run to the ferry terminal. One hill near Fishbourne we were dreading as we had seen in on Saturday, but after all the hills we had climbed, it wasn't bad at all. We were just in time for the next ferry, arrived to Portsmouth slightly early which meant we made the next train, got across London without problems, then had to stand on the National Express train for an hour to Colchester because a person had been hit by a train and caused a large backlog of passengers. As a result, we had to run from our carriage half-way down the train back to the storage coach to retrieve our bikes, otherwise the conductor would have assumed everybody was off/on the train and departed with our bikes and luggage. Home in 4 hours!
It was a tiring weekend but very enjoyable and we decided that we will continue with the cycle touring idea. Next trip is a week-long tour of East Anglia.
